Here comes the summer

I dread the arrival of summer in Muscat -- the heat, the boredom. Ergh. But this year I've made plans.

1. Troom Oman Escape Room. I've wanted to visit Troom for a while, but I decided to wait for the summer since it is an indoor thing. It's an escape room game where you need to look for clues and solve puzzles to find the key to get out. You get an hour in total, and there are three different themed rooms, which means the chance for more than one trip.

2. Camping in the mountains. We have a camping trip planned to Jebel Shams next month, and if that goes well, I would also like to try Jebel Al Akhdar. Mountains being high as they are means that the temperature is much cooler. If camping isn't your thing, there are hotels, which I would hope will have some special rates for the summer.

3. Go snorkelling or scuba diving. As you all know, diving is my thing now and no phrase rings truer when you think about how hot the summer can get here than the words of Sabastian from The Little Mermaid: "Darling it's better down where it's wetter". Be warned, though. When you are in the water, all is amazing, but it will be very hot travelling to and from the sites and you need to be very careful about getting sunburnt. I'm speaking from sore experience.

4. Visit Salalah. The most popular time to visit Salalah is the Khareef (monsoon) season when the place turns green and cool. That said it is one of those places you can visit anytime, and probably best to visit out of peak season when the hotels get expensive and full. If we do manage to see it this year, I will probably try to plan the trip just outside of the busy season (August) so it's not too crowded and expensive.

5. Spend the day at Wadi Shab. I'm adding this to the list not really knowing if Wadi Shab is feasible when it's hot. I've heard great things about the place, and many people claim it is a favourite so I want to see it for myself.

There are of course lots of other places to be entertained indoors -- the cinema, bowling alleys, ice rink, and the "shopping centres" -- but I do prefer the atypical options.

Where do you plan on seeing out the summer? More ideas are most welcome! 

Expat Life: Top tips for relocating to Oman

I've filled out a couple of questionnaires about my blog and what it is like being an expat in Oman recently and they, typically, would ask for top tips when it comes to living here. So I thought I would collate my answers and add a little more information for anyone about to make the journey or new to the place. That said, I would like to think these tips are useful wherever in the world you are going.

Before you arrive
1) Get your paperwork in order.
Get marriage certificates and education certificates attested. We were given a lot of wrong information from my husband's company about what we would need to have. This meant FedEx'ing documents back to the UK to be attested, which is expensive and time-consuming. Think ahead and bring all the documents you could be asked for.

2) Pack home comforts.
I was very naive about how hard I would find the transition, but my best friend gave me this tip, and she was so right: pack home comforts and things that are familiar to you. I specifically remember her telling me she took the Boots home-brand facial wipes and cotton pads, and this makes so much sense. While shopping in a new place can be exciting, it can also be incredibly annoying, especially if you don't recognise brands or can't even figure out what a product is because you can't read the packaging. Having those small things that add a bit of normalcy to such a big change can make a huge difference.

3) Read blogs.
Mine obviously, as well as all the people in my blog roll. They will give you an idea of what life is like here and what you can look forward to. Obviously, you will continue to do this after you arrive too.

4) Join Facebook groups.
There are loads of Muscat-related groups, some for buying and selling furniture and such, others for asking questions, and some for reviews of restaurants, spas, etc. They are great sources of advice and information.

5) Spend time alone.
Undoubtedly you will feel isolated, and you have to get used to dealing with that feeling or being alone or lonely. There will also be situations when you will be trying your best to communicate with someone, but you just don't understand one another, if you want to get used to this maybe try having a serious conversation with a toddler.

After you arrive 

Now I'm going to leave out the obvious here, because there obvious (get a roof over your head, furniture, bank account, etc.)

1) Get out and drive.
Don't end up like me so scared of the roads that you don't go out and explore. Get in the car, expect that people are going to drive fast and very close to you and if you are from the UK get over the fact that you are driving on the wrong side of the road. I don't think I ever used my horn before living here; now it is almost daily. It's normal.

2) Forget about time.
Time. Deadlines. These words mean nothing here. If you give up on expecting anything to be done in a hurry, you'll be just fine.

3) Socialise
There are a few expat social groups for women, which I have blogged about before, and via Facebook, you can find groups related to any particular interests you may have. There is also a handy "local events" tab where you can find out about stuff happening that you might want to go to.

4) Find a new hobby
Chances are whatever hobby you had before you moved to Oman exists here, but there is the chance to get into new hobbies, particularly outdoor ones. I discovered scuba diving, but there are plenty of other water sports, there is also hiking, driving, camping, cycling, and I am sure much more. If you aren't so into the outdoors, there are also clubs for playing games, arts and crafts, reading. And if it turns out that there isn't a club/group for your particular thing, it's easy enough to start your own.

I hope that is helpful to anyone moving. Those of you who already made the move, what would your piece of advice be?

Life Lately: The great outdoors

These life lately posts originally started as fillers making up for the gaps I would have because I was busy with other things. Those gaps seem to be getting bigger but, sadly, I can't say I've been doing much with my time.

The biggest adventure of the last couple of months was a two-week holiday in Egypt, I've already started the detailed post, but, in short, it was amazing. Egypt is the only place I can ever say I have wanted to visit so describe it as a dream come true isn't an exaggeration. It wasn't a trip we had been planning, but an invite to a friends wedding gave me the excuse I needed to get my husband to agree to go. We split the holiday between diving, sight-seeing, and the wedding. It was only two weeks, but even if it had been double the time, it wouldn't have been enough to see and do everything. If you have a chance to go, you really should.

As I mentioned in my last post, most of the winter was spent diving or thinking about diving. Just this week I discovered that Oman has two diving clubs, one linked with PDO (and open to PRORC members only) and another, Muscat Divers, based at Marina Bandar Rowdah. The advantage of being part of a dive club, apart from the social aspect, is that it is much cheaper than diving with any of the operators. I'm still waiting for an email back from Muscat Divers and hoping that being part of the club is going to open up a whole new side of diving life.

Finally, our other outdoor activity has been camping. It's one thing that I never thought I would enjoy, anywhere. We went camping twice this winter, both times on the beach, and I loved it. So much so that I am hoping we can fit in another trip before the weather gets too hot. The other option once summer does kick in is to flee to the mountains, but that seems like it would need more planning than just settling down on any patch of dry sand. If you have suggestions for camping spots in the mountains, I would love to hear about them. 

2015 in review

My look at 2014 post went down well last year, so before we get too far into 2016, I thought I would do the same and record my highlights of 2015.

January was mostly uneventful, but I did have my first meeting of the WGO book club, which has been successfully running for one-year. We've read 12 books together, and the group is still going strong, which is something I am proud of.

February marked my first year of living in Muscat and my one-year wedding anniversary. We stayed at Shangri-La to mark the occasion. I also had my sister visiting for most of February, and we visited Wahiba Sands and Wadi Bani Khalid. Ed Sheeran also came to town, followed by Trevor Noah in March.

In April, my aunt, mum, and cousin came to visit. We took more trips to the desert and also a dolphin trip. I mostly enjoyed arriving home to find dinners of all the foods I'd been missing.

In May, the summer slowdown began. We did sneak in a trip to Dubai, which involved what all trips to Dubai involved: eating and shopping. May also marked six months at my job and finally getting my annual leave allowance.

June was the start of my scuba diving course. It took place over two weekends, and I consider getting certified and all the diving trips that followed my highlight of the year.

July was Ramadan.

In the last week of July and for most of August I was in London. I hadn't been home since October the year before. I spent lots of time with family and friends and did a lot of eating and walking around.

We spent five days in Singapore at the end of September. This was our summer holiday for the year, and I do have a post on that coming up. We continued our holiday into October staying for 12 nights in Bali. Starting off in the more rural Ubud, and ending up in Seminyak. We went scuba diving, hiking, bike riding, horse riding, rode ATVs, had lots of massages, and lounged by the pool.

November and December were all about making the most of the good weather here. We had our first try of camping and also did lots of scuba diving. We also snuck in a trip to the Maldives to make the most of the national day holidays - I wrote about that recently, here.

I do feel very privileged that we had the opportunity to do and see so many fantastic things last year. I know that the lifestyle we have is a direct result of living and working in Oman. That said, I do hope 2016 will be the year we move on. As much as I have adjusted to the lifestyle, I also feel ready for a step-up career-wise, and I would like to start placing roots somewhere without the worry that we will suddenly have to leave.

As with everything...we'll see.

Life Lately: R&R

Well, Hello there! It's been a while.

I took a bit of an unplanned break from the blogging and social media world and, well, life in general.

So, what have I been up to?

For the Eid holidays, we took a nice, long holiday starting in Singapore and ending in Bali, Indonesia. The holiday was a good mix of sightseeing, activities, and relaxation. I never decided if I should blog about my holidays. Primarily I see this as a blog about Oman, and my day-to-day life here. But being here means that we do have access to other places in the world and the means to explore them, and that still counts as life outside the M25, right?

When we came back, I suffered from a serious case of the holiday blues. I did have my birthday to look forward to, though, and my husband took me out for a meal at the new Indian-fusion restaurant in Al-Kuwair. I could have eaten a meal made up of just their panipuri shots. It is one of those unique restaurants that everyone needs to try at least once.

The nice thing about coming back to Oman in October is that the weather is cool enough to start doing activities at the weekend. I plan on blogging more about this, but we've mostly been diving taking advantage of those two-for-one Entertainer vouchers that are soon to expire. We also went camping, which, surprisingly, I enjoyed. We still need to add to our kits before we can consider ourselves proper campers, and I'll blog about that soon, too.

So after all the adventures, and a break from social media I am feeling suitably recharged and ready for winter in Oman. Do let me know if you would like to hear a little more about my travels, and what you are looking forward to doing this winter. 

Expat Life: Confession time

I was thinking about expat misconceptions or more right misunderstandings, and I thought I would take the time to share one of my funnier expat stories.

Quite new to Oman and one of the first times I was driving alone at night, I thought I got flashed by a speed camera. I was sure I was under the speed limit, but at the same time there wasn't another car nearby, and I was sure the light flashed. I drove home close to tears and found my husband at home, fell to the floor and blubbering I told him: "I (sniff) think (sniff) I (sniff) got (sniff) flashed..."

"...I don't want to go to prison!"

I was half expecting the ROP to show up at my door any minute and take me away. And then the sobbing began,

After calming me down, my husband assured me that you don't get thrown into prison for speeding, there wouldn't be enough room in the prisons, you just get a fine.

I don't know where I got that idea from, presumably I just assumed running a red light and speeding were in the same category.

I feel a bit silly thinking about it now.

So over to you, what misunderstanding about the rules or customs did you have when you got to Oman or wherever you are living as an expat?

Don't leave me hanging here....

Expat life: Money matters when living in Oman

As promised, my latest expat life post will try to break down the cost of living in Oman. According to the 2014 Mercer Cost of Living Survey, Muscat is one of the least expensive destinations in the world; it was ranked 168 out of 211 cities polled. However, the ranking was 179 out of 2014 in 2012, and 184 in 2011, so the cost of living has been increasing.

Most expats are lured by generous packages that offer good salaries, accommodation, maybe even a car and bonuses, flights home, and medical insurance. So these key things seem the most logical thing to start with.

It is also worth me beginning my saying that I am coming from the angle of a qualified, Western expat. There are many low productivity expat jobs – maids, gardeners, builders - typically filled by Asian labourers and their motivations and, ultimately, their lifestyle in Oman is completely different.

Salary
The big industries that pull people to Oman are oil and gas and construction. Expats tend to work in senior positions in these fields or in sectors where there are skill shortages, such as in the healthcare and education fields. It is worth noting that there is relative job insecurity at the moment; Omanisation is the key word, and most companies have quotas to meet in terms of hiring locals. As always, I have no intentions to comment on the way things are done here, it is how it is, but it does mean that some are on fixed contracts with no idea towards the end if they will be renewed. I also want to add that for industries like mine that don't seem to be established here the pay is extremely poor. I would expect that, even after tax, in the UK I would be taking home close to double what I make now.

Accommodation
Rent in Oman is paid annually and in advance, rather than monthly. This is a huge lump sum. Unlike London, rent isn't more than half of your monthly salary so while you might find yourself a little pressed when it is rent time, you can feel quite flush for the rest of the year. There is a budget and style range to accommodate all. Costs vary according to size, facilities, and area and places are usually unfurnished. Most people make a pilgrimage to Ikea in Dubai for furniture since what is available here is limited and expensive. You can buy furniture second-hand from expats leaving, and there are Facebook groups for this (here) and another website called DuBizzle.

Utilities, such as water, gas and electricity, aren't included in the rent, but these are subsidised to some extent by the governments, which own the services. Utilities are therefore cheaper than in most European countries. Obviously in the summer you can expect the AC bill/electricity bill to increase significantly.

When it comes to the internet, there are only two companies to choose from: Ooreedo and Omantel. We currently have a cable line with Omantel, which is the only provider in our area. We are lucky that our connection is ok, but in some places it drops out frequently. Different parts of town have different connection speeds and strengths. Our current monthly fee is 35OMR per month, and that is meant to be for the fastest connection. It is worth noting that things like Viber and Skype are blocked, but there are ways to get around this and other services you can use. On my iPad, I used an app called ZenMate to provide a VPN as if I am in the UK so I can watch BBC IPlayer.

For my mobile phone I bought a SIM card that I top up occasionally; I subscribe to a 1GB data package for 5OMR a month and have 2-3OMR on there for calls, which I use very infrequently. I have called the UK on my mobile before (Ooreedo) and I was surprised how little it cost. I spoke for a good half hour with only 2OMR credit, but it's obviously not a habit you would want to take up frequently.

Transport
The cost of using a car in Oman is much cheaper than Europe, almost everyone drives. Petrol is very cheap; it is subsidised. At the moment, it is 0.12OMR/litre, (that's about 20p/litre).  Vehicle registration and insurance are based on the car rather than the driver so once the car is insured anyone with a licence can drive it. Insurance for a 4x4 for multiple drivers is around 360OMR a year. A lot of people seem to buy new, on credit, but there are second-hand cars to be had, usually from expats who are moving on. There is also the option to rent a car long-term. I used to rent a small car for 200OMR/month.

Public transport is pretty much non-existent, there are buses, apparently, but I have never seen one and they are usually meant for the lowest paid workers. So unless you are after a raw, local experience, I'm not sure you would ever want to use one. There are also coaches for longer journeys to Sohar, Dubai, and Abu Dhabi. Locally, you can get around by taxi but these don't run on a meter so how much you spend will depend on what you look like and it's a matter of haggling.

Food and drink
The cost of food surprised me the most, although it probably shouldn't have. Since a lot of products are imported, they work out more expensive. Local products are cheap, although the fruit and vegetables aren't that tasty. Lulu is the best value supermarket, and Al Fair/Spinney's is the most expensive -- but has the highest quality -- and Carrefour is mid-range. A weekly shop for two people costs me 30-40OMR, that's buying the typical fruit, veg, meat, water. It can bump up to 50OMR+ if I add in household cleaning things and cosmetics.

As a non-drinker, I can't comment on alcohol so much, but I understand the buying and consuming for home-use is complicated and costly. There are some restaurants with licences, mostly in hotels, and there are bars too.

Eating out can also be costly, especially considering the quality. A three-course meal at an average restaurant costs around 20OMR for two.

I'm also going to slot a little about buying clothes and makeup/skincare here, there isn't a huge choice of brands and what is available is at a premium. M&S I have noticed has old stock, a dress I picked up in the clearance in the UK for £18 was being sold here for 60OMR. For makeup, I've noticed that the amount in pounds is nearly always the same as rials, so that £10 foundation at home now works out at £16. You also don't find the 3 for 2 deals or many gift with purchase offers to soften the blow.

Entertainment
Tourist activities seem to be very overpriced, which is a shame because I would much rather go as part of a group or tour where someone else knows where they are going and what stuff is. For example, a trip to Jebel Akhdar for four people is 150OMR, but it would cost you probably 15OMR to fill your tank and drive yourself.

But, if you like lounging on the beach, it's free! Boat trips such as snorkelling, cruises, and dolphin watching are roughly 15 to 25OMR. The boats are well maintained and the crew knowledgeable, which is always comforting. They will usually provide lunch and drinks too.

Other entertainment is not costly. Cinema tickets are 3OMR and the food is also cheap. I am not sure what the standard is around the world, but in the UK buying a drink and some popcorn was usually more expensive than the tickets and going to the cinema was a treat. They don't do traditional sweet popcorn though, I don't know why.

The Royal Opera House usually has a range of ticket prices for their shows, if you are happy to sit at the top, which actually has great views you can see a show for as little as 5OMR. The most expensive seats are up to around 50OMR.

At home, we have a TV sports subscription, which costs 100OMR for the year.

The cost of gym membership depends on the gym, you can get some for 10-15OMR a month. I have just signed up to the gym at The Wave, The Wellness Centre, and it worked out to 30OMR a month, but I had to pay for a year in advance for that rate.

Healthcare
Most companies offer health insurance to the family as part of the employment package, you just need to look out for the exclusions, dentistry and mental health, for example. Policies won't necessary cover you for the government hospitals either, which I have heard have better standards. Your policy will dictate what you pay for and how much, most recently when I went to see a GP the full cost of that visit was covered, but when I needed a blood test to determine my blood group I had to pay.  Buying drugs from the pharmacy seems to be cheaper than the UK and worryingly there are a lot of drugs you can buy without a prescription.

Schooling
I don't have children so this isn't something I know much about. Some companies do pay for schooling as part of the employment package, but if they don't then I have heard it is a huge expense. There is no free education for expats in Oman.

Right, I think that's it. If I've missed anything feel free to add information in the comments section. 

One week in Oman

What what you do if you had only one week in Oman? It's hard to narrow it down, right? Well, that is what I had to do as part of a guest post for the blog One Week Adventures.

The blog run by Clement -- who loves to travel -- but like many of us is a professional and only has a short amount of holiday time available. His blog provides one-week adventures to destinations all over the world with the idea that you can make the most of a place in one week just as much as any long-term traveler.

Please head over to the website and check out my post as well as the many others on there. I like the sound of Japan for my next adventure.

Also, let me know, if you only had one week in Oman what would you do?

Souvenirs from Oman

When I travel back home, I like to try and find souvenirs to give to family and friends. Summer is here, and the mass exodus of people has probably already begun, but I thought I would share a few things that you could consider gifting. Very few of these things are Omani made, but they have a distinctly Arabic feel and, well, they were purchased here so close enough.

Dates

I'll start with the obvious and the most abundant thing you will find here; anything date related. There are date wines, jams (a particular favourite of my family), biscuits/cookies, and of course dates themselves, covered in chocolate or filled with nuts, whichever way you like them. Of the chocolate variety, I recommend Chocodates, they have the best date:chocolate ratio, in my opinion. My family also like the Date Bars, which are similar to Fig Rolls. Carrefour has all of these available, so a one-stop shop is possible.

While in Carrefour, I always like to pick up sweets/chocolates/crisps from different places around the world. Ok, you can't hand them out as "gifts" but bringing home a selection of these has always gone down well with my family, they particularly like Sohar Chips and Tola bars. Another local food you could purchase is honey, and there are independent stands to buy these in Muscat Grand Mall and City Centre, Muscat.

Perfume

If you want to be particularly fancy, and very generous, a gift from Amouage I am sure would be appreciated. Amouage is an Omani brand, and the factory is in Muscat. I've heard that they produce the most expensive perfumes out there, so I have never actually stepped into a store.

Slightly cheaper is Abdul Samad Al Qurashi, a Saudi Arabian brand. I like the presentation in the shop; the perfumes are stored in huge phials and then decanted into the size container you want, which makes the whole buying process unique. You only need to purchase the smaller size since it is pure perfume and, therefore, you only need to apply a tiny amount and it lasts a very long time on the skin. Unless you are a particular fan of the strong oud smell, I would recommend Misk (musk) and A-Shamiya (sp) if you are after something that is more subtle.

Jewellery

There is of course gold everywhere, but if you are after something a little more unique, then I would head to Muttrah souk. They sell silver rings and bracelets, and you can also find Omani silver. Now I think they are missing a trick in Oman not having a place showing how the Omani silver pieces are made. When I first saw Omani silver, honestly, I thought it was tin or some metal mix, but when you hear about how it is made you start to appreciate its beauty. For example, in the picture, all that detail you see is the result of one strand of silver being placed down into the design. If the designer was particularly good, you can't even make out the join. Because each piece is unique, it does make it more expensive that the other silver jewellery you can buy. For the smallest pieces, the starting price is around 15OMR.

Others

Muttrah souk is a great place for other gifts and souvenirs. You can find the Omani dagger (Kanjar), which you will notice has the same level of detail and design process as the Omani silver jewellery. I am not sure you would want to try to get this through airport security though. The souk also offers cute wooden animal sculptures; a camel would be the most obvious choice.

I also need to mention Omani Halwa, a sweet made from starch, eggs, sugar, water, ghee, saffron, cardamom, nuts and rose water. It is usually served with coffee (another possible gift). I have never tasted the same halwa twice; each place makes it slightly differently. The general rule is the more you pay, the better the halwa. There are independent shops all over Muscat, a shop in the souk, and Carrefour also sells it.

Finally, another distinctly Middle Eastern gift would be oud. This is the stuff you smell being burnt in malls, the souk, and probably every Omani home. Personally, I find the scent too strong, and I don't understand what you should look out for, quality-wise, to be able to recommend that you buy it from a souk. There is a shop, which can be found in all the shopping centres, called Arabian Oud, and they can direct you with buying the oud and the burner you need to light it in.

I like to think that if you purchased all these you would be sufficiently spoiling your friends and family.

Have I missed anything? Let me know what gifts you like to give.  

Life lately: The big slowdown

Well, you can tell summer has set in and Ramadan is coming, no adventures so no new posts for over a week! Oman has a big slowdown in the summer, people start leaving for the holidays and all the clubs and societies have had their last events. Things won't pick up again until September. In preparation I have been doing very little; an ease into the boredom if you will.

I did manage to sneak my scuba diving certification completion in this week. Honestly, it is the best thing I have done since I have been here -- extremely scary at times -- but it has made me much more positive about Oman.  With fasting, and then a trip back home for a few weeks, the earliest I will get back in the water again is August, after that the plan is to go out at least once a month. I will probably purchase a camera to start taking pictures underwater, so expect to be bombarded with the best ones on here and on my Facebook and Instagram and probably Twitter too!


Yes, I have booked a trip back home: I am so excited. It was a huge faff at work sorting out the leave and finance misinformed me about the conditions of my flights refund (should I be surprised?) But I'm not letting that bother me, I'll be home for three weeks and I already have a lot of plans. Lots of dinners and lunches with friends and family, a bread baking course, Go Ape with my cousins, the Prudential London Bike Ride, and maybe I'll squeeze in a little bit of shopping too. I also want to catch the Audrey Hepburn exhibition if I can or maybe just head to the British museum. Either way, I don't expect to be sitting indoors at all. I know that this blog is meant to be about life outside the M25, but I'll still share a few of these things. I'm also thinking of doing a post about my top non-touristy things to do in London, or unconventional ways of being a tourist. Let me know if that sounds interesting.

In the mean time, I will continue doing very little. I've picked up two new hobbies. The first being colouring. I am a sucker for anything "on-trend" and adult colouring books seem to be the thing right now. I picked one up while in Dubai and the timing seemed just right, I've been coming home most evenings annoyed by something or another at work and taking time to doing something that requires zero thought completely relaxes me. I also started crocheting, this requires a little more thought, and actually spending half an hour doing the wrong stitch the other night only gave me something different to be annoyed about. At the moment I am on the way the producing a very nice chain, if it becomes anything vaguely interesting, or even useful, I will let you know.

Let me know your plans for Ramadan and the summer in Oman. Are there any adventures to be had?And what do you do to keep yourself entertained? 

What travel means to me...

I've been thinking a lot lately about the direction of this blog, is it a lifestyle blog or a travel one? Should I be providing more advice about the every-day aspects of life abroad, specifically in Muscat? Or do I just carry on with my haphazard ramblings and see what happens?

Which brought me to the idea of travel in general and what it means to me, so here is my list:

…I get the opportunity to discover different ways people do life and the way they think about it.

…I get to act (and dress) like a tourist because really is there anything better than getting to act whichever way you want?

…It gives me the chance to make every moment a memory.

…For a short while, I can enjoy not being in control and living outside of my comfort zone.

…I get a reminder that there really is Life outside the M25.

…I get the constant opportunity to learn and grow.

So tell me, what does travel mean to you?

Expat life: Being an expat in Oman

I have a few expat life-related posts planned, the next one will be specifically about the cost of living, but for now I thought I would cover some of the most frequently asked questions I get about living in Oman.

I have only lived here for just over one-year and this is my first expat posting, so I am by no means an expert, but hopefully this is helpful to anyone considering a move.

Why did you move to Oman?
I imagine most people are either lured by a money or love, mine was the latter. My husband was tempted by a well-paying job, and I joined him later. I have always liked the idea of living abroad, but I saw myself either in Europe or America, never the Middle East. I actually had no idea where Oman was, or that it existed before my husband moved.

Do you work/how did you get a job?
Yes, and with great difficulty. I was extremely lucky to find my job when I did. Sadly it's all about contacts, the lady who previously had my job had just left and I had a contact from London who lives here and works in the same field so she passed on my CV.  If the newspapers are to be believed it is harder for expat women to get work visas. Once you do get a job I'm not sure how much scope there is for movement if you have plans to move up the career ladder, but this is probably very industry dependent.

How does healthcare work?
I get health insurance/care with my job. I am actually under the Ministry of Health umbrella, which means I am entitled to be treated at the government hospitals. Usually, expats would have private insurance, which is provided by their employer and there are a number of private hospital chains. I believe there is an obligation for all employers to provide health care, which means that if you employ a housekeeper, for example, you need to pay for their health care. As yet, I haven't had to use the healthcare system so I can't comment on the quality.

How did you decide where to live?
There are certain areas that are expat strongholds: The Wave and MQ being the main ones. My husband did the scoping out before I arrived and he picked well. We are both 10-minutes from work, and I like living in a place where I can walk to the shops (this has been one of my main criteria wherever I have lived). What I can tell you though is that rent in these areas tends to be that much more (sometimes double) what you would pay for the same thing in another part of town. Take a look at Muscat Mutterings post for an idea of what 1000OMR/month can get you. The other odd thing is that you pay in all your rent upfront. And yes, that is as painful as it sounds.

What's it like living in Muscat?
This is such a difficult question because the experience of living in a place is not equal for everyone. All I can say is "it's alright". Muscat is a sleepy town, and I do mean that in the nicest way possible. Life is all about relaxing here. Nothing is done in a hurry. If you are the outdoors type, then this is would be your paradise, lots of beaches to camp on, mountains to hike up, and dunes to bash. If you are looking for a city vibe or a shopping haven then Muscat will be a disappointment. There is a perception in the western media that everywhere in the Middle East is unsafe and/or extreme, and Muscat is neither of those. You do need to be culturally sensitive, but I would say that the place is pretty tolerant.

Is it safe?

Yes. Like anywhere you hear the odd horror story, but I don't feel the need to lock my door and I walk around with little thought of having valuables on show (although I probably should). The police have a strong presence here and are respected. That said, I don't like to travel alone at night in my car (because of the way people drive) and, as I mentioned before, because of the discomfort factor there are a lot of places I wouldn't hang out alone.

Is it like Dubai?

No. It couldn't be more different. The landscape, the culture, the buildings, they really are worlds apart.

Is it expensive?
Yes and no. I will discuss this in more detail in a specific cost of living post. Wages are tax-free, but food/eating out is much more expensive than I expected. Fuel is shockingly cheap though.

How do you find living/working in Muscat as a woman?
Again this is one of those different for everyone questions. All women can expect to be stared at a lot, by both Omani and expat men, mostly the former. It makes walking around alone uncomfortable and I don't do things like sit in a coffee shop alone and read like I used to in London. I've been beeped at from cars and had men rolling down the window to make comments, which is something I didn't expect at all. I expect looking Middle Eastern doesn't help me as I even catch local women staring at me, presumably because they are surprised at how I am dressed (covered, but no headscarf or abaya). I have thought about wearing an abaya just because it would make things so much easier than having to think so hard about my clothes attracting attention. We'll see.

In the workplace, I am lucky that I get on with both my female Omani and expat colleagues well and they immediately made me feel welcome. Because I work for a ministry body though, my hours are different to my Omani colleagues, and while it only works out that I work one hour more a day, there is that constant reminder when they leave each day that we aren't the same.

How do Omanis feel about expats?
Omanis are a little aggressive on the roads and don't know how to queue, but they are also very friendly and always try to be helpful. They are peaceful people, and I was told by my Omani colleague that this concept and way of behaving is something that is ingrained in them from an early age. Western expats, who are generally in high positions within a company, can expect to be shown more respect from Omanis whereas expats from the East, generally doing manual/low-skilled jobs don't get that, and generally have a harder time. In my experience, the groups tend to stay divided. I always thought that Omanis just enjoyed spending time with family and didn't have time to mix, although my colleague said that Western expats, in her opinion, tend to be more private.

Will you learn Arabic?
I would like to, but realistically I probably won't. Learning any language is intense and classes require a few hours multiple times a week: I just don't have the energy for that. Business is conducted in English for the most part and I haven't found not speaking Arabic to be a barrier. Hearing my colleagues talk in the office I'm slowly starting to understand more and more.

Are things censored?
Yes, films are cropped and websites are often blocked. Often I don't understand why a page is blocked, I have been stopped from visiting nail art blogs and reading an article about Pharrell and his song Happy, but I have been able to click on articles about sex/nudity (yes, I now intentionally click on articles such as these just to see if they are blocked). I also noticed in one supermarket when buying a pool inflatable that the body of the women on the front was blacked out, leaving just her head, hands, and hair visible.

Is it easy to make friends?
No. Naturally I think it is harder to make friends as you get older, but the pool of potential friends is that much smaller here. There isn't that culture of going out with work colleagues, or if there is I haven't been invited!

How do you cope with the weather?
Not very well actually. You end up living half the year indoors. From about now until October staying outdoors for any length of time will be unbearable and the only thing you can do is move from one air conditioned place to another. I've come to realise that heat is much more limiting than cold.

What is Ramadan like?
Last Ramadan was tough. I was home alone all day and my husband would then come back and sleep before we went off to my in-laws to break fast. The heat, dehydration, and so much family time when people aren't in the best of moods was a challenge. I imagine for non-Muslims it is harder because there is no drinking, eating or chewing allowed in public during daylight hours and because cafes and restaurants are closed the place is even quieter. I will be working this year (reduced hours) so it will be interesting to see if that makes things easier or harder.

Do you have to cover up?
Not exactly, but it's better to. This comes down to attracting attention and generally I do what I can to avoid that. I live in maxi dresses/skirts and long sleeved t-shirts. I have never been one to have a lot of flesh on display, but I did love wearing leggings and skinny jeans, actually any jeans, but I am far too self-conscious to wear anything like that now. Even running the two minute journey to my pilates instructors place in my yoga pants (covered in a long black cardigan) attracts more stares than usual, so I would never feel comfortable walking around the shopping centre like that. There are some places that it is easier to feel a bit more relaxed about the dress code, where I would ditch the long t-shirt under the dress, for example, like hotels. I do want to add that I have seen girls walking around the shopping centre in shorts and vests, and I assume they aren't feeling uncomfortable, so it is a personal thing. The rule in the malls and a good general rule is to keep knees and shoulders covered.

Do you have ups and downs?
All the time. I'm currently on a downer. I think it's normal. I've found it really hard to call Muscat home and I recognised quite quickly that I don't really know how to pull myself out of these down times. In London, I would watch trash TV, or go out, buy a Chai Tea from Starbucks, walk around, even just go to Boots and treat myself to a new lipstick. All those coping strategies are gone and I just need to ride out the feelings. The time difference and lack of easy access to Skype means calling up your best friend for a chat isn't that easy.

What do you miss from home? (Including food!)
I miss my family and friends, high street shopping, watching TV, boots (both kinds), internet shopping, walking, public transport, greenery, M&S Food, Hummingbird Bakery, Bubbleology, Five Guys, Turkish restaurants, proper fish and chips, and that feeling that I would have whenever I walked down a street in central London.

When do you plan on moving back?
This is a difficult question. If I was an impulsive person I would leave on the next flight, but I'm not and I know we should be using this time to save money for when we do go back to the UK. That said, I would be open to going somewhere else, Europe, the US, or maybe even further east. 

Favourite things: April

I can't believe it is May already! April was an extremely busy month for me, I had my mum, aunt, and cousin here at the beginning, and then quite literally swapped my aunt and cousin at the airport for my dad, who stayed for the rest of the month.

I like having guests, they like to cook us all the foods we are missing from home for starters, but it is also a good opportunity to get out and about and do the things that you can get too lazy to do.

So here were a few of my favourite things for the month of April:

1. Wadi Bani Khalid

I can't get enough of this place, it is beautiful, and with the temperature quickly rising, it is the perfect place to spend a lazy day, cooling off in the waters. You just need to make sure to layer on the sun protection.

2. Serial Podcast 

I know I am a good few months late jumping on this bandwagon, but I have just started listening to the Serial podcast, and I am hooked. In case you haven't heard, it is the story of Adnan Syed, an inmate at a prison in Baltimore who was convicted of murdering his ex-girlfriend in 1999. He says he's innocent - although he can't exactly remember what he was actually doing the day she was killed and his friend and key witness for the prosecution said he did it and was able to give a lot of details. There are 12 episodes in total and I'm just over half way through. You can listen to it, and find out more, here. 

3. Let's Read charity bookshop

Based in Al Qurum Complex, I actually stumbled across this book store by accident on a mission to find a cheap, faux designer handbag. There was only 5 minutes until closing and not too much time to browse, but I spied the above book and, honestly, I haven't been so excited in ages. I know what you are thinking #geekalert, and you are right, but I felt like I had robbed the place walking away a book worth $50 for the grand total of 2 OMR or about $5. All the books in the store come from donations, so you never know what you will find. Paperbacks are priced at 1 OMR and hardback books at 2 OMR, so if you aren't looking for anything in particular then it really is the place to visit, and all the proceeds go to charity. The opening hours are 10am-1pm and 5pm-7pm, and they're open Saturday to Thursday.

Just for some context here, I am an editor for a living and, unsurprisingly, reference books here aren't easy to come by. Does that make me seem like less of a geek? 

No? 

I didn't think so. 

4. Mai Thai

Mai Thai is an authentic little Thai place based in Al Meera Hypermarket. Without a recommendation, it would be easy not to even end up in the supermarket, or just choose to try the burger place opposite. The food is fresh, the staff are friendly and helpful, and I can see myself going back many nights when I can't be bothered to cook. I will post a full review after my next visit.

5. As Sammak, Siffah
Another food/restaurant related favourite. I have actually blogged about As Sammak before, and I am pleased to say that the place has improved hugely since my last visit. I still believe that location wise there isn't a better restaurant in Oman, which is what drew us back. Last time there was hardly any fish on the menu and the service was terrible. There seems to be a new manager who is friendly and helpful and makes sure that everyone is happy. It's bordering on being too hot at lunchtime now to really enjoy the place, but you should be fine for a late lunch/early dinner.

May, I expect, will be a much more relaxed month as we gear up for the extreme heat and Ramadan. I also heard rumours of a national holiday in the middle of the month? And I have my fingers crossed I won't get sick again so I can finally start my diving course.